The route chosen was the NCN Route 4 to Fishguard; but whether I would reach there in 5 days was yet to be seen. And as it turned out, I would not.
Initially, I set out on my Surly, loaded with 2 rear panniers and tent, planning on cycling between 50-60 miles a day and camping en route in strategically booked campsites. Sadly, this trip was short lived due to adverse weather conditions in the Pontypridd region on the second day. I swiftly decided that as a holiday, cycling in monsoon conditions was not at all fun, and took the train home.
There were several things I learnt from this day and a half cycling NCN 4 from Bristol to Pontypridd.
Signage in England is far poorer than signage in Wales. There were a couple of occasions, when trying to get to the old Severn Crossing Bridge, I found myself seriously off track and had to retrace my steps to find the one turning, being quite pivotal, that had not been signed. Most of the signs on the English side of the border were stickers that were faded or ripped off; generally in a poor condition. I understand that most of the signage for NCN routes is done by volunteers. Unfortunately when these volunteers get disenchanted with the charity (Shitrans), signage maintenance goes out of the window. For an organisation that promotes these “networks” signage is surely one of the most important elements for providing a joined up and coherent route. Signage should not be left to volunteers. Sure, they can help, but the maintenance of and consistency should be undertaken by more official bodies. Unfortunately, I neglected to take a photo of the particularly bad signs in England, but I’m sure most of us know how bad it is.
Another lesson learnt is the poor quality of the off road surfaces (and indeed the on road surfaces that follow country lanes that have evidently not seen much proper maintenance for decades). Sustrans, on insisting that cycle routes must be off road or on little used back roads, have decided in their eternal wisdom, that this means they can send people down unsurfaced farm tracks, that are barely serviceable for tractors, let alone people on bikes. For a charity that prides itself on providing off road routes ANYONE can use, this is horrendous. The sections of route that followed the Celtic Way between Chepstow and Newport were particularly bad with some pretty horrible barriers to navigate.
Unfortunately, those who designed the path thought it best to periodically remind those who use it that cycling is not welcome in Britain with the installation of various kinds of barrier, as demonstrated in the slideshow of pictures below (I've added a special favourite from the Surly section of this trip as it is demonstrative of how horrible these kinds of barriers truly are):
Anyway, rant over about barriers (though these would continue to frustrate me for the rest of the journey, but such is cycling in a country that perceives travel by bike as an inconvenience to cater for rather than an opportunity). The day continued to be stunning and Wales truly is a beautiful place when the sun is shining.
A quick recommendation here for a café stop in Tonyrefail – The Coffee House. A lovely little café which is very welcoming (and the staff and clientele were amazed by the Brompton which caused quite a stir amongst the locals).
The next section of NCN Route 4 beyond Tonyrefail was another disappointment. The route led off road – and when I say “off road”, I mean “OFF ROAD”.
However, despite this the “off-road” section joined a rather lovely dismantled railway through to Bridgend. If only the previous section was a lovely as this, it truly would be a wonder.
One last rant about NCN Route 4 on this section of “Katie vs Wales” nearing Port Talbot. The route goes through Margam Country Park, famed for its deer. However on entering this Country Park, the travelling cyclist is confronted with this atrocious gate.
This would have been an absolutely lovely ride if had not been for the bungling attempts made by whatever organisation it was to create a complete off-road network. And shame on Sustrans to endorse something that is blatantly unfit for purpose. However, I would still recommend the route as it heads through some spectacular scenery. Just don't bother taking a bicycle with you.
Another couple of brief recommendations here at the end of this particularly ranty first post: Mountain View B+B in Port Talbot is really nice and very easy to find! Clean and comfortable, especially after a hard day’s worth of getting frustrated at Sustrans. And the Shah Restaurant in Port Talbot – utterly phenomenal food and fantastic staff.